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Tuesday, November 2, 2010

I Have To Hurry It Up!!

I will be leaving for more journeys soon so I need to wrap up Egypt!  I am going to try to get one of those smaller computers and blog as I go while enjoying Lebanon, Turkey, Greece, Bahrain and Jordon!  I am so excited!  I wanted to see Damascus in Syria but refused to pay the $550.00 for a visa for 12 hours in the city :(

We finished our cruise in Luxor and visited many great temples as previously described.  The Tombs of the Nobles and the Workers was fantastic!!  The tombs were very well embellished and the colors so well preserved.  I guess that is the advantage to not being exposed to the elements...no sunshine, no wind, no rain.  It was all so remarkably well preserved!  Each tomb was a treasure!  We even went into King Tuts tomb though all his stuff is in the Egyptian National Museum or traveling around the world.

On the last day in Luxor we took a hot air balloon ride over the Nile.  I was a little leary of going as I do have a fear of heights but the lift was so gentle it wasn't bad at all.  As we floated over the Nile we could see the banks dotted with many of the temples we had seen as well as the tombs.  It was stunningly gorgeous to be up there as the sun was rising.  We finally came down after a while...landed in a tree (OK it was only two feet tall but it was a tree) and then tradition dictated we do a happy dance in appreciation for the safe landing!


We then had to board our flights.  Diane and her sister went home to California and Shelly and I flew to Sharm El Sheik for our birthday celebration..climbing Moses Mountain and visiting St. Katherine's Monastery where we touched the descendant of the Burning Bush!  Will finish this weekend..I promise :)

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Beit Eddine, Tyre and Sidon

Up bright and early this morning for another full day.  Tourism is the number 2 industry in Lebanon so they make it a full value day!  I have had Lebanese lunch everyday :)  We start with the Mezza (Lebanese appetizers) which consists of bread with hummus, babaganouche (sp?), moujjanat and different salads.  For main courses we have had chicken, fish, shishkabob.  I think it is funny now to watch people struggle with their eating utensils.  I just pick the food up and dig in like a real Arab. (I think it may be difficult using all those utensils again).

Today we journyed to southern Lebanon.  it's a little tricky because that is where the hezbollah stronghold is but we had a very pleasant day with no difficulties whatsoever.

Our first adventure was to the palace Beit Eddine.  It is high in the mountains and I confess our driver made me feel a litttle anxious as he just zoomed around all those hairpin curves.  I guess he is used to it and we are not....  The palace is beautiful!  Some prince built it in the early 19th century and it is now used as the summer residence of the Lebanese president (sort of like Camp David I guess).  The architecture was fabulous and the basement of this palace contains many beautiful mosaics.  When you stand away from the mosaics you cannot see the individual tiles.  As you get closer you see the teenie tiny tiles.  Someone put a lot of time and effort into those projects!  There was a rose garden and other nice lawns..all this on top of a mountain!

We then decended the mountain and drove to Tyre which is called Sour by the Arabs.  On the way we passed the largest Palestinian refugee camp in the world.  Looks like a terrible place.  There were Hezbollah flags everywhere.  We came to the ancient Roman ruins which were interesting.  It was in the familiar Roman  cross shape dividing the city into quarters.  Apparently Alexander the Great had been there first in 300 BC and then the Romans came and made their own embellishments.  The largest Hippodrome that the Romans ever built was made there.  We then drove to Sidon and had a nice lunch right beside the sea.

Sidon has a wonderful Crusader castle.  It was built on an old Roman site.  It looks as if some Crusaders came, decided this was a good place, oh and there are some old Roman columns we can use to build a fort...and we have to make it so the men are protected.  When you see the pictures of it on facebook you will see these round things on the walls.  Those are the old Roman columns the Crusaders used to shore up the castle!  It was a very pleasant day!

These last two cities I mentioned are in the Bible.  When I go to Turkey I will see Ephesus and the Isle of Patmos.  It ended up being a good thing I didn't get a visa to Syria.  One American woman did.  The Syrians stopped the tour group at the border and the Syrians pulled her off the bus and grilled her for half an hour.  Then they had a police car follow the bus for the entire tour so they could report any unusual activity by that American!  I think I will skip Damascus.....

Tripoli tomorrow (Tripoli, Lebanon...not Libya) then off to istanbul on Tuesday.

Love to all!

Christine

Saturday, October 16, 2010

Jeita, Byblos and Harissa

Today was a good day though we had a really big tour group!  I met a lot of nice fellow travelers!

Our first stop was at the Jeota Grottos.  You will need to lookthese up on Wikipedia because they would not let us take pictures.  There was an upper cave that we had to reach by cable car and an underground cave that we did by boat. These caves were pretty spectacular!  They were HUGE inside.  I thought of a caveman apartment complex!  There were lots of stalactites and stalagmites.  The water was natural spring water and was so so clear!  Even blue!

After the caves we went to Byblos.  Now Byblos had a temple that was turned into a church that was turned into a Crusader castle.  I think that was its last job.  There are many crusader castles in the Middle East and I will get to see about four of them before I leave :)  See the pictures on facebook!

We had a nice lunch of fish and traditional Lebanese food at a local eatery and then went to Harissa.

Harrisa is at the top of a very tall mountain (by Lebanese standards).  The Virgin Mary is revered by both Christians and Muslims.  While Muslims do not recognize Christ as the Messiah  they do revere him as a very importent prophet.Many Lebanese make pilgrimages to Harissa.  What struck me was Christians and Muslims were there together today.  Everyone enjoying the moment and the view.  So this is a beautiful statue of Mary high on the mountain. 

Tomorrow Beittidine, Sidon and Tyre. Llooking forward to this as Sidon and Tyre are places mentioned in the new Testament.  AND another Crusader castle!

Love to all!

Christine

Friday, October 15, 2010

Baalbeck, Anjara and Ksara

Yesterday we went to these three places.  Just a note...yes I am here alone but I don't feel alone.  Everyday I meet fellow travelers and we band together and make friends.  I will never see these people again but for that moment we enjoy each other's company!  I have met many interesting people from many different countries.  I am loveing that part of traveling!

We started our day at Anjar.  This is a ancient archeological site discovered by accident.  Because there was conflict going on in Lebanon at the time they could not get any professional archeologists to excavate it so it was excavated by students at the university.  There are some obvious mistakes but it doesn't take away from the fact it is history and a great example of Roman ingenuity.  They had drainage systems.  They had Roman baths with cold, tepid and hot pools.  There was a harem that even though we couldn't see the true beauty of it we could see from what was left how beautiful it must have been!  The entire site was a square shape and in the center were walkways that went from east to west and from north to south.  Each quarter had a different function from living quarters of the Caliph to the harem, the souks and so on.  I keep wanting to touch these ruins hoping some dna from the past has been left that I can connect to.  It is an amazing feeling!

From Anjara we went to Baalbeck.  Here the Temple of Jupiter at Heliopolis along with the Temple of Venus and Temple of Bacchus were built be the Romans.  The Temple of Venus has a very feminine feel to it.  It was made in the shape of a horseshoe with tall columns and you can tell it was beautiful in its time.  The Temple of Jupiter is HUGE!!  I guess since he was king of the Roman gods he had to have the biggest!  When you look at my pictures on facebook you can see what the temple in its entirety looked like.  It is still very huge and I confess I had a bit of vertigo being so high and no railing to hold onto :(  Got a little weak in the knees.  The Temple of Bacchus is in a corner of the same grounds.  Apparently after the rituals and sacrifices they enjoyed (quite a lot) of the fruit of the vine!

We went to the winery of Ksara.  The intersting thing about this is the Romans found it and made a winery of it.  That is how old it is!  It is a labyrinth of caves and it goes very deep into the mountain.  Apparently because of this it is an ideal temperature and climate for making and preserving wine.

I am taking today off from outside tours today to rest up for the next three days.  Very busy days before I leave on Tuesday for Istanbul!  I will go out and explore more of Beirut this afternoon. 

Christine

Beautiful Lebanon!

Lebanon is an amazing country.  It is so beautiful!!  It has certainly had its challenges but like a Phoenix it keeps rising from the ashes!  It is heart wrenching to think of how much has been destroyed by war.  I think now the purpose of war is to destoy the soul....to take away the old and ancient things that have been so much of a country's heritage.  Still the Lebanese people love their country and continue to rebuild.  Beirut was especially hit hard and you can see the remains of conflict though contrustion is taking place everywhere!


My first day here we went to Cedars, Becherrah and Kozhaya.  It was very tricky getting through town because the president of Iran was visiting.  Once out of Beirut it was a pleasant drive along the coast and into the mountains.  I was impressed by the houses and buidings built on the mountains.  They really are living on the edge!!  Each place has a view of something beautiful so I see why they do it...as well as there doesn't seem to be any flat land except along the coast!  The Kahlil Gibran museum was amazing!  They had many of his books there as well as his art.  It is said that he stated "Had I not been born in Lebanon I would have chosen it" and he is buried here at his request even though he did much of his writing while he lived in the US.  It was a beautiful and peaceful place to visit.  The churches on the mountain tops reminded me of Europe a little.  There is a strong French influence here and French is another language spoken fluently in Lebanon.  Many of the street names are French as well a stores etc.  We found more French influence when we went to the Cedars as the French contributed greatly to the preservation and rebuilding of the Cedar forest.  The cedars were fabulous!  It was overwhelmingly gorgeous there!!  So peaceful and quiet.  I could only imagine what these >1000 year old trees might have seen.  They have planted more but we were told it would be at least 700 years before they were as tall as the others!  There was an early Christian church at the top of a hill we hiked.  It was all made of stone and the inside very rustic but it was great to sit in a church over 1000 years old!  A little father on we cam to a place where there were carvings in the trees near the top.  One was of the Crucifixion.  There were imagesof monks and a face in the center that may have represented Christ.  The French were very instrumental in preserving this project.  We then visited a couple of old monasteries!  We were told about the Hermits that lived in the caves in the mountains.  It is amazing to me that anyone would want to be a Hermit.  We visited a hermitage.  Many of these monasteries could only be accessed by foot!  I'll bet the monks were very fit!  The mountains are very steep!  At the monastery of St. Antoine (a Maronite monk) I could see the buildings were built incorporating the local caves.  In one cave we saw the place where many miracles have ocurred.  On one side there were upside-down pots.  We were told women who have trouble becoming pregnant bring their pots and place them there then walk around three times and pray so they might have a child.  It is still an operting monastery and many weddings and baptisms are performed there.  Again...it is built right on the edge of the mountain!  This has been a great opportunity to learn more about the early Christian church and its struggles and eventual triumph!

The Lebanese people have been very friendly!  I feel well taken care of!  My hotel is very comfy and I can see the harbor from my window. It is nice to watch the ships coming in in the morning.  My friend, Judy, was amazed at how inexpensive this leg of the trip is! 

More later!

Christine

Monday, July 26, 2010

FINALLY!! Abidos and Dendara!

Our guide encouraged us to see these two temples.  He said they were very beautiful and though not as old as the others we had seen they were very well preserved.  One of the really nice things was driving in the Nile river valley countryside.  It was beautiful, lush and green.  We saw the real Egyptian country people.  We warily went through small towns.  Apparently there had been some trouble and each small town had its militia in full force (including weapons) at the entrance to the cities.  No one bothered us and I felt very safe with Abdul with us.

Now the story of Isis and Osiris is a very romantic and sad tale.  Osiris' brother plotted to get rid of him and managed to kill him.  Isis being a clever woman with magic and potions was able to bring Osiris to life for one last romantic night.  Pictures on the wall of the temples showed Osiris prepared and "completely" anticipating Isis' visit.  Impressive!  When you view the pictures in my Facebook album you will see Isis comes to him in the form of a bird and uh "lands" on him.  This somehow produces Horace.  Abdul insisted all along that the Egyptians invented everything  and we discovered they did invent the X rated heiroglyphs.  The first one we saw at Abidos.  It was very nice and new enough that the carvings were very distinct.  We then trekked to Dandara.  This was also a newer temple and the best pictures were there!  There were more pictures of Isis and Osiris doing the deed and the early Christians tried to make a monastery out of Dandara and of course you can't have  pictures like that hanging around so they tried to carve it out and just made it bigger!!!  We were able to do our Indiana Jones impersonations again and had to crawl down a very tight shaft, make a left and crawl into another very tight shaft and there we discovered heiroglyphs that had not been touched by any elements so were near perfect!  The pictures we took don't do them justice!  The detail was incredible!  I felt so privileged to be there and see these things.  Abdul told us not many people see these temples because they are out of the way so I am really glad we made the extra effort! 

We were exhausted by the time we got back to the boat and we had a Galabia party to get ready for.  This is a party where you wear Egyptian dress.  We were into it but the German tourists on our boat were not so much.  We also went up on deck and watched our boat go through the locks on the Nile on the way to Luxor.

Great temples there and a hot air balloon ride coming up!

Christine xx

Friday, April 16, 2010

The Temple of Queen Hatsepshut and Edfu

Our Guide had an interesting true story to tell us.  Back in about 1997 several groups of tourists were attacked here (at Queen Hatshepsut Temple) by forces under the command of Osama bin-Laden.  About 67 people were killed.  Our guide was there with two tourists.  Apparently bin Laden got word that there was to be a group of Israeli tourists visiting the temple and scheduled an attack.  Massad got wind of it and canceled the Israeli tour unbeknownst to the terrorists.  According to Abdul the tourist groups there were Japanese, German and northern European.  Abdul  hid in terror in a cave near the temple with the young man he was touring with.  The young woman who was with them was one of the casualties.  It was a very sad tale , one that Abdul says helps him when he relates it to his tour groups at Hatshepsut.  Apparently that Egyptian queen had quite a story ruling Egypt over the objections of her stepson.  He managed to get rid of her under suspicious circumstances and then worked really hard to destroy her temple and any memory of her!  We then saw the Colossi of Memnon.  I always thought they were huge (at least in pictures) but they did not seem all that colossal in person......

We went to Edfu where we saw the temple of Horus.  Horus is Shelly's favorite Egyptian god and  Abdul was raised near the temple.  He told us how this temple was the one that inspired him to become an Egyptologist!  It was a lovely temple with great carvings!  One word of caution...we were taken to the temple by horse drawn carriage.  Our guide warned us that the drivers (in fact the people in Edfu) could be quite aggressive in a hostile way.  We gave him our tip money for the drivers so we would not have to be involved in the negotiations.  It was a good thing because one of the drivers became quite hostile when he found out he would not get more money out of us!

We are still on the boat at night.  It is so pleasant to sail while you are sleeping in bed.  Nice gentle rocking.

Next the fabulous temples of Abidos and Dendara.

Christine xx